Today I am taking part in an important official inspection – an expert from the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (the INAO, a body attached to the French Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries) is coming to make a decision regarding the granting of the PLC (plafond limite de classement). The area to be visited is very large – 300 hectares (about 740 acres). Jean, the chairman of the yields committee, who is an experienced wine-maker, has prepared a list of the plots that need to be inspected. Three groups form and set off for half a day.

The PLC is official approval to exceed the yield levels laid down by law, by between 10% and 20%. Yield limitation is one of the many constraints with which Rully wine, as an AOC wine, must comply. The INAO monitors appellations in France, and this is why an expert is here today to inspect the vines and to say “yay” or “nay”.

We walk a lot. I am with Vincent, Jean, Raymond, Paul, Hervé and the INAO expert. We are of all ages, some young, some old. There is not much talking – our eyes do all the work. The men walk in twos, across, up and down dozens of rows of vines. We take everything in. We can see where the hail fell last month, on August 12th. In places the damage is 30%. Elsewhere, vines are in perfect condition, completely untouched. Luck really plays a large part in all that…

That great dryer, the south wind, blows on the vines. Everyone agrees that it’s the weather we need.

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